Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
